Central's happy meal, Washington, DC

There's a rash of burgers in DC right now, and I'm only too willing to scratch. Ray's Hell-Burger and Westend Bistro are itching fiercely; the first for its meat cred and challenging cheese selection, the second for its promise of balance and perfection. But with so much loving press, Central Michel Richard's burger came first.


Central's menu may be a catch-all of pan-Western bistro favorites, but its concept is about more than perfect execution of comfort food. Most preparations introduce a quirk or a twist. Not so much bringing the dish to a new place as taking it home by the scenic route. The fried chicken, for example, gets its crispiness from a bread crumb jacket, lined with a mousse of the fat and skin for savor. The burger finds its own path too: in place of ketchup, a tomato slice confit, prepared with plenty of aromatics; instead of pickles or lettuce for crunch, a layer of crispy potato tuiles; soy-ginger mayo for some sweetness and heat; and a perfectly cooked and seasoned patty. Cheese and bacon optional.


All this adds up to one unusually subtle and delicious burger. With flawless fries and a fresh strawberry soda, this feels like the quintessential happy meal.